By J. Bruce Richardson, Corridor Rail Development Corporation; December 7, 2020
Think elegance. Think grace. Think Cary Grant and Eva Marie Saint in Alfred Hitchcock’s mega thriller “North by Northwest” set in 1958. New York Central’s flagship all-Pullman sleeping car train, the 20th Century Limited played an important role in the movie, both in a Pullman bedroom and the Century’s ever-elegant dining car.
The 20th Century Limited began every journey from New York City’s Grand Central Terminal to Chicago’s LaSalle Street Station over New York Central’s Water Level Route with its passengers walking to the train on a red carpet on the platform. Passengers on the Century were treated as royalty. In something that would never be thought of today, while passengers were boarding, the dining car was open for full meal service, and even special non-passengers were allowed to dine before the train departed.
New York Central labeled its premier train “The Most Famous Train in the World.” It was featured in many movies and even a Broadway play. The Central and Pennsylvania Railroad were locked in ongoing, bitter rivalry and battle for New York-Chicago passengers, with the Pennsy offering its famed Broadway Limited. No matter which all-Pullman sleeping car train passengers chose, there would only be elegant, perfect passenger service. These were the two trains that celebrities chose for their travel, whether from New York City to Hollywood (often connecting to Santa Fe’s Super Chief) or anywhere else in the country.
The 1954 20th Century Limited Dinner Menu was a presentation of gastronomic delight:
Dinner
Stuffed Celery, Seckel Pear, Pimiento Olives, Ripe Olives, Radishes Rosette
Ox Tail Soup, Jardiniere; Baked Grapefruit with Honey, Clam Broth au Beurre, Fresh Shrimp Cocktail Lorenzo (50 cents additional charge), Canapes of Foie Gras Truffee, Strasbourg or Chilled Tomato Juice
• Fresh Lake Whitefish, Meuniere, Cucumbers, Garden Vegetable, Gratine Potatoes; $3.90
• French Fried Fresh Shrimp, Tartare Sauce, with Whole Mushrooms on Toast, Buttered Asparagus, Long Branch Potatoes; $4.00
• Baked Philadelphia Capon, Dressing, Cranberry Sauce, Lima Beans Persillade, Parsley Potatoes; $4.20
• Milk Veal Steak Saute, Fines Herbes, Buttered Asparagus, Potatoes du Jour; $4.25
• Roast Ribs of Beef, Natural Gravy, New Corn and Lima Beans, Gratine Potatoes; $4.50
• Charcoal Broiled Selected Sirloin Steak (Fried Onions served on request), Buttered Asparagus, Long Branch Potatoes; $5.85
Individual Salad Bowl, Cheese Dressing
Desserts
• Deep Dish Cherry Pie, Whipped Cream
• French Pancake with Marmalade
• Butterscotch Sundae, Cookies
• Chilled Half Grapefruit
• Whole Peeled Green Gage Plums
• N.Y.C. Special Ice Cream, Cookies
• Liederkranz, Camembert or Imported Roquefort Cheese, Ry-Krisp or Crackers
Dinner Beverages
Coffee, Tea, Individual Milk
A La Carte
• Ox Tail Soup, Jardiniere, Cup 40 cents; Tureen 55 cents
• Baked Grapefruit with Honey; 50 cents
• Clam Broth au Beurre, Cup 40 cents
• Chilled Tomato Juice, 40 cents
• Consomme, Hot or en Gelee, Cup 40 cents
• Canapes of Imported Caviar (Beluga), $1.75
• Fresh Shrimp Cocktail Lorenzo, $1.00
• Golden Omelette with Asparagus on Toast, Long Branch Potatoes, Individual Salad Bowl; $2.10
• Home Style Roast Beef Hash, Pickle Chips, Garden Vegetable, Individual Salad Bowl; $2.20
• Country Ham Saute with Seckel Pear, Lima Beans Persillade, Long Branch Potatoes; $2.35
• Grilled Half Chicken, Hunter Style, Garden Vegetable, Parsley Potatoes; $3.15
• Charcoal Broiled Lamb Chops with Sliced Mushrooms, Lima Beans Persillade, Gratine Potatoes; $3.50
• Club Sandwich, 20th Century; $2.00
• Grilled Imported Sardines on Toasted Rye Bread, Tomato Salad; $1.50
• Combination Salad; 85 cents
• Lettuce and Tomato Salad; 80 cents
• The Salad Bowl with Ry-Krisp; $1.10
• Pineapple Salad, French Dressing; $1.00
• French Pancake with Marmalade; 45 cents
• Butterscotch Sundae, Cookies; 55 cents
• Deep Dish Cherry Pie, Whipped Cream; 45 cents
• N.Y.C. Special Ice Cream, Cookies; 45 cents
• Chilled Half Grapefruit; 45 cents
• Whole Peeled Green Gage Plums; 45 cents
• Camembert, Liederkranz or Imported Roquefort Cheese, Crackers or Ry-Krisp; 50 cents
• Coffee, Pot; 40 cents
• Tea, Pot; 30 cents
• Malted Milk, Pot; 30 cents
• Instant Coffee, Pot; 35 cents
• Individual Milk; 25 cents
• Cocoa, Pot; 30 cents
• Sanka, Pot; 35 cents
• Postum, Pot; 35 cents
Most of its operating life the 20th Century Limited was an all-Pullman sleeping car train. It wasn’t a short train; during its peak it wasn’t unusual for it to operate in more than one section. Each consist carried two complete dining cars, plus two lounge cars. As comfortable as the Pullman bedrooms, compartments, and roomettes were, ample opportunity was available for socializing in a lounge car where additional monies could be spent on light food and beverages.
Notable on menus of this era and into the 1960s were a choice of a pot of coffee and that relatively new invention, instant coffee. It’s difficult to imagine, other than for the novelty of it all, why there would be a choice between well-brewed coffee and instant coffee.
Also available was Sanka, a non-caffeinated coffee first marketed in the United States in 1923, and Postum. Postum is made from roasted wheat bran and molasses and was popular in the early 20th Century as a coffee substitute with no caffeine. It was created by the Post Cereal Company (hence, the name) in 1895; an “instant” version of it was developed in 1912.
Just about every railroad menu prior to Amtrak offered Chilled Tomato Juice as an appetizer. This appetizer was not limited to railroad dining cars; it was found on many upscale and popular restaurant menus. Today, like the popular dessert of the era, Floating Island, it has been replaced with higher priced/higher value items. The simplicity of a refreshing glass of Chilled Tomato Juice to begin a meal has lost its audience.
Most notable on dining car menus is the absence of soft beverages, such as Coca Cola. While Cokes were available most of the 20th Century, by many people it was considered a recreational beverage, not a drink to accompany a formal meal.